I took a operating soar from the wood platform jutting out over Lake Balžis, and for the cut up second I used to be within the air, every thing appeared to pause. I took within the pristine forests, the cloudless sky, the dragonflies hovering and the superbly clear water I used to be about to plunge into.
The stillness enveloped me. As I emerged from the cool lake, I thought of what number of European cities would kill for such a paradise so near their centre. I used to be at Inexperienced Lakes, a 15-minute bus journey from the bustle of Vilnius, but it surely felt like a unique world. The water, the parkland and the beach with imported sand have been so clear and interesting.
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Lithuania is a gem of a rustic, set between the Baltic Sea and Belarus; it’s residence to wild nature and distinctive tradition. Its twin cities, Kaunas and Vilnius, are a joy to explore. They’re additionally simpler than ever to go to since Lithuania, together with Latvia and Estonia, standardised rail timetables and built-in trains in 2025.
Now you can take a direct prepare to Vilnius from Riga or Tallinn, and there’s extra is to come back: the delayed high-speed Rail Baltica challenge will join the Baltic States and Warsaw, that means ultimately you’ll be capable to rapidly and easily travel from the UK to Vilnius and Kaunas by prepare.
Vilnius is one in every of Europe’s greenest cities, with eco-credentials equivalent to sprawling parks, electrical trolleybuses and clear river seashores. Its Previous City is in nice situation, and it’s a surprise it isn’t swarming with extra vacationers. The truth that it’s not means I loved a quiet espresso outdoors the Eureka Bookshop, then went inside to browse books in English, then wandered previous the Presidential Palace and Cathedral. Dionysos is a captivating little Greek joint in Vilnius Previous City the place I sat out at a desk on the pavement and loved a hearty serving of spanakopita.
There’s no vacationer tat, no garbage on the streets.
The Lithuanian capital, because it gained its independence in 1990, ranks as one of many best value destinations in Europe. A prepare ticket from the Airport to Vilnius’ central Essential Station is simply €0.90. I can not consider a less expensive airport connection.
Ensure that to huff and puff your approach up town’s two hills – as I did – the Hill of Three Crosses is topped with a monument which honours a trio of Franciscans who met a grizzly finish right here. The sundown view with a chilly soda at 6pm is perfection. Gediminas Tower sits on high of the opposite hill, which is smaller and rises above the Previous City – giving an excellent view over the beautiful historic coronary heart of Vilnius.
On the backside, I ended for a drink in on the lovely Pacai hotel, a stunning property that’s a part of the Design Inns steady, with minimalist decor and a sleek bar and restaurant.
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The brutalist Palace of Live shows and Sports activities is an intriguing sight. As with the Linnahall in Estonia’s Tallinn, this former sports activities corridor is in want of some love – I trampled over fences and up crumbling stairs to get a greater look. Numerous plans have been mooted for redevelopment. Its half in Lithuania’s historical past is one cause for maintaining it – high-level political conferences have been held right here when Lithuania was making an attempt to interrupt away from the USSR.
I ended my time within the metropolis with extra wild swimming. Vilnius is without doubt one of the finest cities for wild swimming on the earth, with clear water and seashores so good they earn an EU Blue Flag.
I headed for Valakampiai Seashore on the Neris River. It’s fantastically well-maintained, clear, secure, life-guarded (in the course of the summer season), and full with picnic lawns, barbecues, bathrooms, and showers. I jumped in and let the currents carry me downstream.
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A straightforward bus connection, taking simply over an hour, introduced me to Kaunas. Town was the capital of the Lithuanian Republic within the Twenties and 30s when a short-lived however thrilling interval of independence birthed incredible architecture. I walked previous the Put up Workplace and the Milk Firm HQ – two key sights. There are additionally unbelievable clusters of ingenious Artwork Deco homes and house blocks.
In the present day’s Kaunas hums with pleasure – historic buildings sit on the becoming a member of level of two rivers in a splendid spot, and this educated and good-looking city full of college students is buzzing. Road artwork and funky bars make it a energetic weekend break. On the aspect wall of the brutalist Trendy Artwork Gallery is a mural by Osgemeos, these bad-boy Brazilian brothers of the road artwork world. Their mom was from Lithuania, and so they have typically spoken about their Baltic heritage from their base in São Paulo.
I additionally stopped by the Yard Gallery – the place vibrant artworks dangle in a yard between buildings.
After that, I marvelled on the bizarre sight of the Britanika Lodge – a 14-storey deserted constructing. The lodge by no means opened and certainly was by no means completed after development began within the Nineteen Nineties. It appears like one thing from 28 Days Later. Within the night, in bare-bricked brewpub Hop Doc, I joined the bearded Kaunas cognoscenti (alas, my very own beard is just not as spectacular) for a connoisseur burger.
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I ended my journey with a brief journey out of city to Pažaislis Monastery. This Baroque magnificence is the biggest monastery in Lithuania, set in rolling inexperienced fields. The majesty of the structure is matched by the serenity of the setting and the possibility to revel within the divine as you take into account its 4 centuries of historical past. It’s additionally a famend filming location – HBO’s Catherine the Nice was shot right here.
The combination of historical past and greenery appeared to sum up Lithuania and its twin cities. Structure and nature each dazzle in their very own approach on this small however completely shaped Baltic state. I walked again in the direction of the river because the solar set, vowing to return to discover extra.
Christopher Beanland was hosted by Courtyard Vilnius, Radisson Blu Vilnius, Omio, Go to Kaunas and Go Vilnius.
Methods to do it
Journey between Kaunas and Vilnius is booked by way of Omio, the place a single bus ticket prices round £10.
There are direct flights to Vilnius from London Stansted and London Luton (Ryanair) and London Luton (Ryanair and Wizz) ranging from £47 return.
Kaunas
There are direct flights to Kaunas from London Stansted, Bristol, Belfast, Liverpool and Edinburgh (Ryanair) and London Luton (Ryanair and Wizz) ranging from £41 return.
The place to remain in Vilnius
Courtyard sits in an space of intriguing new structure. A plaza with fountains sits beside the constructing and friends get views in the direction of Gediminas Fortress.
A lofty tower and landmark in Lithuania, Radisson Blu Vilnius was one of many nation’s first skyscrapers. Spectacular views over town.
The place to remain in Kaunas
Moxy Kaunas Center has a buzzing communal space with video games, bar and restaurant. Upstairs, the small rooms are quirky and nice worth.