Something is stirring in West Sussex. Over the previous yr, a crop of latest pubs, eating places and rural openings has quietly appeared between the chalky hills and flint villages of the South Downs, including contemporary momentum to an already spectacular meals scene.
The Black Horse in Amberley is among the many newest arrivals, whereas the newly opened Isca at Borde Hill is bringing bold, garden-led eating to the Sussex countryside. And Woodcote within the tiny village of Graffham is an understated, produce-focused addition.
Stretching from the Surrey border to the English Channel, with the South Downs rolling by means of its center, West Sussex has lengthy attracted a trendy crowd – from artists and actors to designers and musicians – however in contrast with the Cotswolds, there’s refreshingly little fanfare. It’s simply not that type of place. And I ought to know since I formally joined the ranks of the “Down From Londoners” and moved right here myself six months in the past after, quite a few weekends spent visiting the realm had me longing to name it dwelling.
Thus far, throughout what is popping out to be one of many warmest summers on record, I’m realising the sheer brilliance of what’s on my doorstep, from glorious vineyards, higgledy-piggledy market cities, smashing pubs and sandy seashores – all inside a straightforward hop of London and its spectacular transport hyperlinks.
There’s no higher time to go to the Downs. Right here’s my choose of the most well liked happenings in West Sussex for 2026 and past.
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The place to remain
First issues first, if you happen to actually need to expertise correct Sussex, swap the generic lodge for one thing extra genuine. On this a part of the world, it’s all about pubs with rooms, or, more and more: eating places the place you possibly can mattress down.
Final yr noticed the 14th-century Swan Inn in Fittleworth re-open. The previous consuming gap for the likes of JMW Turner and John Constable remains to be one of many county’s chicest pubs with rooms (suppose partitions painted with Edward Bulmer colors, Penny Morrison curtains, Birdie Fortescue bedspreads and handmade lampshades by Imogen Pope) with an excellent Provence-inspired backyard on the again.
Amberley is considered one of my favorite villages within the South Downs and maybe the prettiest (it has bucolic, Cotswolds-esque vibes, minus the coach excursions that nobody needs). Conveniently it has its personal prepare station with direct companies from London Victoria however extra importantly – right here lies the Black Horse pub, just lately revived by brothers, the Gladwin trio (of the Native & Wild restaurant group), who grew up on a household farm 5 miles away.
Upstairs are 11 deliciously designed bedrooms, with upholstered headboards, blinds by textile designer Molly Mahon and freestanding Albion slipper baths. Downstairs, beneath the frilly Alice Palmer pantry shades, native produce reigns supreme – puffy finger-licking Marmite eclairs, Nutbourne cucumber (from the household farm) and mint gazpacho, buttery just-caught grilled lobster, and a sticky, torched marshmallow chocolate tart.
Elsewhere in Amberley, if you happen to’re looking for solitude, there’s a magical hideaway with sweeping views over the Arun valley named Upper Barn. This self-contained off-grid barn conversion sleeps as much as 4, and the rental additionally encompasses a shepherd’s hut, which is the proper place to dig into the final remaining chapters of your yet-to-be-completed bestseller. In the summertime, its part-walled backyard is wrapped in a meadow of untamed flowers, with the backdrop of the spectacular South Downs Approach strolling and biking path.
Within the village of Graffham, on the northern slopes of the Downs, lies one other new restaurant with rooms that’s price shouting about; The Woodcote is a spot that manages to be smart-as-a-pin however in no way fussy. New chef director Nathan Cornwell (of The Silver Birch, Moor Corridor, Kadeau), whips up celebration-worthy dishes with Sussex produce – from Goodwood lamb to Duncton Mill trout. You’ll be able to relaxation your head in elegant rooms swathed in items by a roll name of nice British designers: wallpaper from Robert Kime, bedside tables by Alfred Newall and materials from Caroline Inchyra. In the course of the summer season months, there’s additionally a pop-up summer season cafe for laidback coffees and pastries, with views price lingering over.
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Eat and drink
Alongside the sensible line-up of pubs and eating places with rooms, nice locations to eat and drink will not be exhausting to winkle out among the many hills and valleys of West Sussex.
You’ll need to hotfoot it to the just-opened Isca at Borde Hill, on a 400-acre property relationship again to the sixteenth century. In a good-looking glasshouse overlooking a walled backyard, estate-plucked herbs, flowers, fruit and greens discover their method onto plates and into cocktails, from chalk stream trout to a pea-pod martini. Nicola Harding’s plant-filled interiors are suitably polished, whereas a seasonal youngsters’ membership with Treehoppers Forest College (operating from July till September in 2026) provides dad and mom the final word golden ticket: an uninterrupted meal.
One other West Sussex property providing spectacular eating is Knepp, the pioneering rewilding mission close to Horsham. Its Michelin Inexperienced Star Wilding Kitchen places the property itself on the coronary heart of the menu, with meat from its free-roaming herds, and greens from the market backyard showing alongside sustainably-sourced British fish, whereas a lot of the cooking is finished over fireplace. In summer season, nab a desk within the courtyard and mix lunch with a wander alongside one of many property’s strolling trails.
For one thing extra low-key, there are many independents price in search of out. In Amberley, locals rallied to save lots of community-run The Sportsman when its future was threatened in 2024. In the present day, its spectacular views throughout the RSPB Wild Brooks make it one of many loveliest spots for a pint. Close by, The Boathouse Amberley, which was a long-popular riverside spot earlier than it closed earlier this yr, is about to open beneath new administration within the coming months, this time as an easy-going neighbourhood Italian. Watch this area.
Over in South Harting, rustic La Follia, owned by former style artistic director Mariana Newton, is perennially full of locals, who settle beneath the hanging baskets and fairy lights for espresso and cicchetti. And in Arundel, tiny unbiased Juniper is an element cafe, half bakery and half restaurant, turning out freshly baked pastries, together with its well-known cinnamon buns alongside seasonal breakfasts and lunches. On Friday evenings there are wine and snacks.
What to do
The South Downs are made for exploring on foot, with trails unspooling throughout chalk ridges, by means of historical woodland and alongside the banks of the River Arun. The 100-mile South Downs Approach cuts straight by means of the county, however concern not, you needn’t decide to the entire thing: there are many gentler round walks linking villages and pubs. Certainly one of my favourites takes you from Bignor Hill by means of rolling downland in direction of The Pig in the South Downs, the place a chilly drink on the sweeping terrace is a becoming end.
If pedal-pushing and lycra is your thought of a enjoyable time out, take to the Downs Hyperlink, a 37-mile bike-friendly path largely following the course of two former railway traces, or attempt the shorter family-friendly Centurion Approach, which runs alongside a dismantled railway between Chichester, Lavant and West Dean.
When you choose to get out on the water, rent a self-drive boat from Riverside South Downs at Amberley, or a kayak or paddle board from Pulborough Paddles at Stopham Bridge and potter alongside the River Arun, recognizing kingfishers and uncommon dragonflies as you go.
Coming to this a part of Sussex with out sampling its wine is virtually unlawful. Household-run Nutbourne Vineyards, close to Pulborough, provides excursions and tastings amongst its vines, wildflowers and lakes, adopted by a tasting of its nonetheless and glowing wines. Higher nonetheless, order considered one of its picnics or sharing platters and settle in with a bottle.
The grand estates may occupy a weekend in themselves. At Cowdray choose up a strolling map and yomp the 16,500-acre property, taking within the historic Cowdray Ruins and deer park earlier than refuelling on the cafe.
When you’re visiting in summer season, count on polo, the annual Maize Maze (which has a brand new theme yearly) and wildflower selecting patch (each August).
Over at Goodwood, there’s horse racing, together with household race days, alongside the property’s packed calendar of motoring occasions.
Treasure hunters (with deep pockets) will love mooching across the cobbled streets of Petworth, packed to the rafters with vintage outlets and glorious unbiased boutiques. Two of my favourites are Tallulah Fox, the place cabinets are laden with fairly linens, glassware and ornamental finds, and Maker’s Barn, a superbly curated showcase of latest British craft, from ceramics and textiles to furnishings and artwork. It additionally hosts a brilliantly eclectic roster of workshops, spanning every thing from making conventional gate hurdles and stools to basket weaving and paper flowers.
For a lungful of contemporary sea air, hop aboard Chichester Harbour Charter’s newly launched ferry from Sparkes Marina on Hayling Island to East Head at West Wittering (operating till 25 October), the place the sandy Blue Flag seashores and coastal walks await.
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